Taverna Kaplani: Protecting the vulnerable

Tuesday, July 10, 2018

Protecting the vulnerable

While the rest of the crew went to the beach in Nafplion, I snuck off to see the Folklore Museum. It was a very good version of a pretty typical folklore museum: regional costumes from the 19th or early 20th century, marked only with their location and the donor's name, maybe an indication if they were a wedding costume (which most were). There were also some 19th or early 20th century everyday material culture. This one seemed focused on the world of women and had a lot of looms, spinning implements, dowry chests, doulapas (wardrobes), etc. I wish they were better contextualized. I wish there was something that talked about all the layers of costume and what they were for. I know that the traditional costumes were all like texts, giving information to the observer about the wearer: region and gender, of course, but also stage of life (unmarried, married, widowed), economic status, sometimes role in the community (like profession). A lot has been written on Greek "costume" so we know a lot of that information; it just doesn't make it to the museums, even recently updated award-winning museums like this one. Then there is the deeper level, that interests me the most, the subconscious meanings. Being a woman was a dangerous business, and there were protective elements to what they wore. For instance, these giant belts: I think they were apotropaic, warding off evil in exactly the place where death was most likely to enter, the womb.

These oversized belt brooches are surely protective

Another version

Another function of jewelry was to display wealth, and I think was mostly worn by brides on the wedding day. I wish it was clearer in these displays when this clothing was worn. I think a lot of what is on display is wedding clothing or other items worn only on special occasions, which is why it is in such good condition. What did they wear on an ordinary day?