Friday, July 1, 2011

Concrete and Greenery


Leslie:  We are all struck with the amazing flavor of Greek food, not so much because they cook it well (though of course they do) but because of the quality of the ingredients.  We've all posted about the glories of the laiki agora, the weekly produce market in every neighborhood that features local fruits and vegetables, and how everything tastes like the platonic ideal of themselves.  But the contrast between the concrete block apartments that make up most of Athens and the centrality of sensuous plant life:  balconies and postage-stamp gardens are filled with color and fragrance. 

This one is in our building -- I just love the jasmine cascading down.  In my daily walk to get groceries,  I pass at least 5 gardens with jasmine twining on the fence, so as I brush past them, I activate the scent.  What I see is concrete city, but what I smell is garden.


A balcony garden.

Bamboo screen on a balcony.

Ground floor garden
Lots of restaurants have plants overhanging outdoor tables, and this is my favorite place, a hidden bar inside a morning-glory festooned gate.  This is on a street corner that features lots of concrete apartment complexes and a construction site.  But there it is:  my secret garden bar.
But the centrality of greenery goes beyond atmosphere to draw in patrons to sit and eat in a romantic setting.  Even tiny Plaka stalls boast small pots of aromatic or colorful plants. 

Pot of basil carried outside this Plaka shop every day.
Not only do we see the pots of basil, but I've seen the woman who sells the pots so that everyone has a fresh one for their shop.  This is in Monastiraki, and features a lot of basil, but also some flowers.
Mobile plant vendor
 The contrast between the harshness of the architecture and the sensuality of the fragrant and colorful greenery blows me away.





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